Driving is part of our DNA

Our tour started on a Sunday morning in Entebbe, the former capital of Uganda and the country's only city with an international airport. Having been super curious about our travel mates, we finally met them: 6 from Germany, 2 from Ireland, and another from Switzerland. They were a fantastic squad. The tour was led by Doctor (yep, cool name), and we were lucky to get gourmet chef Joseph.

Before heading to our first location, Doctor made a proper briefing. He showed us the vehicle: a truck like a Swiss army knife with luggage lockers, 2-pin chargers, comfortable seats, a fridge, a freezer, and enough space for all tents, chairs, tables, kitchen supplies, and food staples. Moreover, he gave us an overview of the itinerary (see map) and the program, which consisted of five main elements: Driving, game drives, trekkings, eating, and sleeping.

As you can see from the map, we almost covered the entire country. Doctor explained that the company Drifters was founded some 40 years ago. Back then, the first tour was a 1-week hiking tour in South Africa; on the first day, they would drive 1'000 kilometers, then hike for 1 week and eventually hitchhike back to the vehicle. So Doc made it clear that driving long distances is part of the Drifters' DNA, and our tour wouldn't be any different. Last but not least, he asked us whether we saw that everywhere in the tour description, it was said that attendees should be flexible and open-minded. That's because we are in the heart of Africa, and things sometimes wouldn't go as planned. If that is the case, we shall lean back and remember we are on holiday.

Pole pole

While the way of doing things in Switzerland deserves the label "clocked", it would be "laid-back" for Uganda. And again, don't get me wrong, I appreciate that about this country and eastern Africa in general. In Swahili, there's even a word for this: Pole pole, which means slow slow. And it's not only a word but almost a way of thinking. It resonates well with a saying I've recently read: Europeans have the watches, while the Africans have the time. Truly, the perception and importance of time is utterly different from what we're used to. It wasn't an issue for Michelle and me as we've already been 4 months into our unpaid leave and hence were time-mentality-wise already somewhere between Switzerland and Uganda, let's say Chad. Funnily enough, one of the country's most famous meals is called Rolex (an egg omelet with vegetables wrapped in a chapati). A meal you can get everywhere, and it reminded me continuously that not only does time have a different meaning in Uganda, but also what's behind Rolex. I prefer the Ugandan version; it's much more affordable and something one can eat.

So, how's Uganda?

Yes, what's Uganda like? To get an idea of what we saw during our tour, revert to the gallery. Below, I'd like to share a few impressions that struck me. rodamón mag is clearly not The Economist or National Geographic, but peeking behind the tourist curtain is an ambition I have:

• Amiable and kind people: No matter where we've been in touch with locals, they were always super kind and tried to help whenever a European person (aka muzungu) looked like in need of help. I read somewhere about the importance of formal greetings in Uganda; it was said that it would always be of paramount importance to greet people and ask how they are. That's what I applied when I once went for a run. On my 45-minute round, I spent 30 minutes greeting people and small talking to them while new ones joined the knot around me, apparently surprised and excited to see a muzungu in their area. For the remaining 15 minutes, I was accompanied by children running with me and a flock of chickens chasing me. Another adventure on its own.
• Densely populated: Uganda's territory is 5 times bigger than Switzerland's, and its population is 5.4 times bigger. So what's the deal, Chris? Same as Switzerland, ha?! Yes, but it's Africa, a continent of vast distances and (perceived) endless land, so it's remarkable if you always see people everywhere. If you forget about islands around Africa, Uganda is Africa's fifth most densely populated country. No wonder I was not alone on my run.
• Demographics upside-down: Usually, the wealthier a society is, the older its people get, and the lower the birth rate. In Western countries, we see an urn-shaped population pyramid; in Uganda, it's the other way around. Only 2.5% of the population are older than 65, 48.1% are children below 15, and the remaining 49.4% are between 15 and 65. Life expectancy at birth is 63 (84 in Switzerland), which is low, but consider that it was worse in 2000, when Ugandans were only expected to reach the age of 48 (80 in Switzerland).
• Poverty is still a significant issue: Although Uganda has seen good economic momentum throughout the last years, poverty remains a key issue. As of 2019, 42.2% of its population still has to survive with less than 2.15 USD a day. The situation improved; back in 1999, it was 68.7% of the country's people, but there's obviously still a long way to go!
• Diverse landscapes: Uganda is one of the 13 countries hitting the equator line, and thus, a large part of it enjoys a tropical climate, but the topography, wind systems, and numerous lakes and rivers cause significant differences in rainfall across the territory, and hence you're getting a top-notch variety of landscapes. From glaciers to tropical landscapes, from savannas to rainforests, Uganda has it (almost) all.